Podcasts by Eric Hörsts Training For Climbing Podcast
Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone.
Eric is one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
Further podcasts by Eric J. Hörst
Podcast on the topic Abenteuer Natur
All episodes
#94: The Road to 5.13a - PART 3 from 2023-12-04T09:20
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for a training client of mine (Ryan Devlin) as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red Rive...
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#93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers from 2023-11-07T10:02
In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. I’ll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these mistakes in the past…and c...
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#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium from 2023-10-02T08:04
In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August.
I'll give you some of the conference highligh...
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#91: The Road to 5.13a - PART 2 - Working to SEND the Project! from 2023-09-11T08:01
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this ye...
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#90. Six Weeks until Autumn Send Season -- Training Smart to Perform Your Best! from 2023-08-22T08:01
For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending.
With the start of "send season" just 6 weeks away, this episode will describe a few keys for dialin...
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#89. How Often Should You "Rest Day" While on a Climbing Roadtrip from 2023-07-10T08:01
For many of us, Summer is the season of climbing roadtrips. Whether you're venturing across North America, Europe, or Asia, visiting new climbing...
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#88: The Physical Differences Between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (and the Training Implications for Pursuiting Peak Performance in Each) from 2023-06-06T08:01
The topic for this Flash edition can be summarized in this simple, but powerful concept: Listen
#87: The Making of a "Surprise" Hardest-Ever Send! (and the question "Why do we climb?) from 2023-05-09T08:01
Imagine going from having no project climb...to sending perhaps your hardest-ever route in just a few short weeks. That's the unusual story I will share with you in this episode.
The rout...
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#86: The Road to 5.13a - A Personalized Training Strategy with Ryan Devlin from 2023-04-10T05:00
What's it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my prescription for one 5.12 climber looking to project -- and send -- his first 5.13a before year's end.
In an inte...
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#85: Will Running Help Your Climbing? from 2023-03-06T09:01
It's a question I get asked all the time: "Will doing some running (or other cardio) help my climbing performance?" Giving a proper answer demands some nuance based on the individual's phenotype...
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#84: The Role of Genetics in Climbing Performance&What It Means for You from 2023-02-07T09:01
In this fascinating episode, Eric Hörst provides a deep and thoughtful overview of the research on the role genetics plays in sports prowess and climbing performance. Leveraging his decades of e...
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#83: Training (and Life) “Edits” to Climb Better&Achieve Greatly from 2023-01-06T09:01
If you're passionate about improving your training, elevating your climbing, and advancing in other important life areas....then this is a must-listen podcast!
With the perspective of a n...
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#82: 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don't Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!) from 2022-12-13T09:02
In this fast-paced episode, Eric details 7 end-of-climbing-season mistakes that you don't want to make!
Becoming aware of common training mistakes, seasonal traps, and/or counterproductiv...
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#81: Boulder&Crag Day Nutrition for Peak Performance (FLASH Edition #2) from 2022-10-25T08:05
You have been waiting all week to get out to get outside and climb! You've been training hard and your stoke is high to top some great boulders and/or take the sharp end up a few killer routes. ...
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#80: Weekday Training for Weekend Sending! (FLASH edition #1) from 2022-10-05T08:01
Do you work or school full-time during the week, then on the weekends set off on a mission to climb your hardest? If so, then you've surely considered how to train most effectively during the wo...
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Episode #79 - 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World! from 2022-09-14T08:01:14
In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route.
Quite oft...
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Episode #78 - Lattice Training's Tom Randall Interviews Eric Hörst on Training Past, Present, and Future! from 2022-08-11T08:01:29
This episode is a 75-minute training-for-climbing tour de force by two of the world's top trainers, Tom Randall (Lattice UK) and Eric Hörst (TrainingforClimbing.com). The fascinating format has ...
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Episode #77: Climbing Tactics&Pro Climber Analysis from 2022-07-11T08:08:02
Fast-paced and content-rich, this episode features Coach Horst’s analysis of pro climber tactics and strategies as featured on The Struggle Climbing Show #14. Eric discusses vit...
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Episode #76 - The Optimal Mindset for Projecting&Sending! from 2022-06-14T06:02:31
Your training is done. You've arrived at the boulders or crags. You're ready to begin work on a project...or perhaps you hope to send your ongoing project. It's at these times that your ...
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Episode #75 - Increasing Self-Awareness in the Pursuit of Excellence from 2022-05-10T08:21:30
Self-awareness is the ability to monitor your internal climate, comprising your thoughts, physical sensations, and emotions, as well as the quality of your actions in the gym, at the...
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Episode #74 - 20 Tips for Advanced- and Elite-Level Climbers from 2022-04-01T06:08:34
In this Part 2 in the series, 40 Ways to Improve Your Training and Climbing, Coach Hörst provides 20 tips for advanced and elite-level climbers. Discover how to employ a more nu...
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Episode #73 - 40 Ways to Improve Your Training&Climbing - Part 1 from 2022-03-07T07:00
In this two-part series, Coach Hörst provides tips for an effective, holistic approach to steady, long-term improvement. No matter your ability level or weakness (physical, technical, or mental)...
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Episode #72: Training Case Studies - Part 2 from 2022-02-14T07:01:34
In this PART 2, hear Eric's training advice for two elite/pro-level climbers.
For each of the climbers, Eric provides a Climber Overview, Impressions, Training Recommend...
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Episode #71: Training Case Studies - Part 1 from 2022-02-07T07:23:19
Gain clues to improving the effectiveness of your training-for-climbing system from this fascinating two-part podcast!
Listen to Eric's personalized training advice as given to four climb...
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Episode #70 - A System for Achieving Greatly in Climbing...and Beyond! from 2022-01-02T16:02:26
In this empowering New Year's podcast, Eric details effective strategies for uncommon success in climbing and any other high-value life activity or mission. Learn 3 essential steps for departing...
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Episode #69 - 10 Common Training-for-Climbing Mistakes from 2021-12-10T06:00
"The best training program for you is one that you're not currently doing." — Coach Hörst
In this revealing podcast, learn 10 common training mistakes that stunt progress in clim...
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Episode #68 - Anatomy of a Redpoint from 2021-11-03T08:30
I've got something different for you in this episode...which I hope that you'll find revealing, instructive, and extremely beneficial. I will take you through the process of working my mini-proj...
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Episode #67 - The Perfect Warm-up Protocol for Optimal Training&Sending! from 2021-10-01T05:51:10
One of the most powerful concepts I coach is that simple and seemingly "minor things" can make a MASSIVE difference in your training results and climbing performance. This is why I use the word ...
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Episode #66 - 10 Powerful Tips to Climb Harder Boulders and Routes from 2021-09-03T08:30
This T4C episode serves up numerous powerful tips--that you can put to work immediately--to more effectively work on hard boulders and routes...and send more quickly!
Learn about the powe...
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Episode #65 - Tips&Strategies to Manage Common Climbing Fears - Part 2 from 2021-08-12T08:00
To climb your very best -- and to truly enjoy climbing -- you need to become an expert fear manager!
Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. The fears of falling, getting hurt, f...
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Episode #64 - Performance Training Interview with Coach Hörst - Part 2 from 2021-07-27T08:30
This is Part 2 of Steven Dimmitt's (Nugget podcast) interview of Eric Hörst on a wide range of climbing training and performance topics. In this episode you will learn...how young guns Cameron H...
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Episode #63 - Nugget Q&A with Coach Hörst About All Things Training - Part 1 from 2021-07-17T18:18:10
This information-packed episode features Steven Dimmitt of the Nugget podcast interviewing Coach Hörst on all things training. This wide-ranging Q & A covers many vital topics including: how to ...
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Episode #62 - Managing Fear and Climbing Your Best - PART 1 from 2021-06-07T08:30
Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. Fear of falling, fear of getting hurt or dying, fear of failure, fear of embarrassment, and even the fear of the unknown affects us all from time...
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Episode #61 - Slowing the Pump Clock from 2021-05-06T08:00
Training to get stronger is good. Learning to climb more efficiently so that you can get the most out of the strength and power you currently possess is SMART!
So if you want to progress ...
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Episode #60 - How to Create "Low-Gravity Days"...and Climb Your Very Best! from 2021-04-01T05:00
Learn 8 things to "get right" in order to climb your very best...and to help create more of those wonderful low-gravity send days!
Coach Hörst provides powerful tips for priming your body...
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Episode #59 - Back to Basics: Time-Tested Training That Works! from 2021-03-04T06:00
There are myriad exercises, activities, and sports that climbers engage in with the belief it will elevate climbing performance. For the typical climber, however, most of the climbing-performanc...
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Episode #58 - The Secrets to Finger Strength...When It Counts! from 2021-02-03T05:30
Chances are...your fingers are already strong enough to climb the next grade. In this podcast, Eric details five ways to increase your apparent finger strength on the rock...and climb one grade ...
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Episode #57: A Simple System for Extreme Success! from 2021-01-05T05:30
The beginning of a new year is a great time to think critically about your current situation…and trajectory. What are your short-term goals...and long-term destination? How will you get there? Listen
Episode #56: Ask Coach Hörst About Training! from 2020-12-21T06:00
What could be better than a one-hour Q & A with coach Hörst about all things training? 15 questions on a wide range of topics...and hopefully more than a few that will hit home with you. Enjoy!<...
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Episode #55 - Effective Training through the Holiday Season from 2020-12-02T21:38:55
2020 has been a challenging year with a global pandemic, a COVID lockdown at home (or two), and limited climbing travel for many of us. We're now entering the holiday season, with COVID lingerin...
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Episode #54: Turning "Impossible" into "I'm Possible" from 2020-11-02T07:00
Are you ready to rethink what's possible in your climbing life? There's a good chance that your perceived limit is actually a self-imposed imaginary boundary!
Once again this month, I pre...
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Episode #53: Effective Projecting...and the Secret for Sending! from 2020-10-14T04:30
In this episode, Eric welcomes you into the Training Café...which is his live coaching video stream broadcast every other Monday. So in this podcast, you'll hear Eric's TC broadcast which includ...
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Episode #52 - 10 Tips for Pursuing Maximum Climbing Performance from 2020-09-04T04:01
Legendary climber, Wolfgang Gullich, famously said that "the brain is the most important muscle for climbing". Sure, strong fingers are important--but there are many strong-fingered ...
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Episode #51 - Tips to Climb Your Best on Weekend Outings or a Road Trip from 2020-08-10T08:01
You've been dreaming about your boulder project, dream route, or road trip. You've trained smart and hard. Your psych is high. You're ready to crush! So, how can you best transition from gym to ...
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Podcast #50: 8 Super Powers of the Very Best Climbers from 2020-07-07T20:21:19
What makes great climbers great?
What are the distinct and rare character traits that make climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, and Alex M...
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Episode #49: How To Improve Your Concentration and Focus from 2020-06-03T17:20:25
As physical as climbing is, it is even more mental. Being technically sound and physically strong is not enough to navigate a high-ball boulder problem, personal-best redpoint, intimidating big ...
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Episode #48; Strategies for Success Despite Hardship and Adversity from 2020-05-11T08:01
Climbers are drawn to the challenges and potential adversity of the steep. Great climbers embrace grand challenges--and almost certain adversity--in achieving hard and rare accomplishments. This...
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Episode #47 - Training Café: Energy System Training and more! from 2020-04-20T19:49:01
These are crazy times we're living through with the COVID crisis. Most of us are self-quarantined...left to train on a home wall, hangboard, and whatever else we can kludge together. My personal...
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Episode #46 - COVID-19 "Climbing Closedown" from 2020-03-24T08:00
An often-used proverbial phrase, to encourage optimism and proactive action in the face of adversity or misfortune, is to "make lemonade out of lemons." In this podcast, Eric Hörst presents a ho...
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Episode #45 - Ask Coach Horst (Training for Climbing Questions Answered) from 2020-03-10T08:05
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 9 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...hangboard training, diagnosing a finger injury, autoregulation use in ...
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Episode #44 - How to Train More Effectively and Climb Harder! from 2020-02-06T10:00
4 Tips to Improve the Quality of Your Training and Accelerate Progress Toward Your Goals!
It's been s...
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Episode #43 - 10 Tips and Concepts to Make 2020 Your Best Year Yet! from 2020-01-01T16:00
It's the dawn of a new decade, and so I wanted to take this rare opportunity to record a unique and, hopefully, impactful podcast. Listen
Episode #42 - An "Intelligent System" Approach to Climbing Training and Goal Pursuit from 2019-12-13T21:41:13
Effective training can't be haphazard, nor done ad-lib. In this podcast, you'll learn a supremely effective conceptual model for training that adopts an "intelligent system" approach. Eric descr...
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Episode #41 - Personalized Nutrition for Training and Performance from 2019-11-20T06:00
If you're serious about training and climbing your best, then you must be serious about performance nutrition. The foods you consume play a central role in energy production, training adaptation...
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Episode #40: Blood Flow Restriction Training for Climbers from 2019-10-08T05:15
In a departure from my usual lecture style podcasts, I'm happy to feature a guest on this month's podcast--Dr. Tyler Nelson, a chiropractic physician and owner of Listen
Episode #39: Climbing Injuries: A Perfect Storm Brewing from 2019-09-04T04:10
This is fourth in a series on sinew training with a specific focus on climbing injuries and prevention. Incidence of climbing injuries is growing, and overuse injuries to the fingers, elbows, an...
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Episode #38: Ask Coach Horst (Round 6 of Training For Climbing Questions) from 2019-08-06T05:00
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...energy system training for alactic power, climbing-specific aerobic en...
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Episode #37: The 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers from 2019-07-01T05:00
What makes great climbers great?
What are the distinct and rare character traits that make climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, and Alex M...
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Episode #36: Training to Increase Tendon Strength, Muscle Power, and Connective Tissue Health! from 2019-06-06T04:00
Sinew training. What the heck is that?
Chances are you've never heard of "sinew training"...or even thought about it. After all, genetics and "luck" dictate the propertie...
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Episode #35: Ask Coach Hörst - Round 5 from 2019-05-14T00:37:51
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the interesting topics covered are...the science of "supercompensation", the use of gymnastic e...
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Episode #34: A Revolution in Finger Training for Climbers from 2019-04-21T04:05
This may be the most important podcast you've heard in a long time...or, perhaps, ever!
If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical limits, and/or occasionally ex...
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Episode #33: Intro to Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments from 2019-04-01T04:05
Get ready for some breakthrough research-based information that, I believe, is revolutionary for hard-training climbers!
The topic is sinew training—that is, new training...
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Episode #32: Success Strategies for Peak Performance from 2019-01-10T05:30
New Year's is a great time to think deeply about your goals, re-evaluate your course and strategy, and perhaps even reinvent yourself! Taking your performance to the next lev...
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Episode #31: Hangboard Training Tips&Research from 2018-12-07T05:30
This episode provides critical framework and guidelines for effective hangboard training. Based on 30+ years of hangboard training experience--and the latest research--you'll learn the importanc...
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Episode #30: IRCRA Research Highlights&Training Tips from 2018-11-03T15:25:56
0:25 – Preview of this and upcoming podcasts.
5:55 - Overview of this summer's International Rock Climbing Researchers Association 4th Congress in Chamonix, France.
10:40 -
Episode #29: Ask Coach Hörst - Round 4 from 2018-10-02T06:00
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners, including in-depth coverage of effective hangboard training, the importance of developing a climbing "t...
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Episode #29: Ask Coach Hörst - Round 4 from 2018-10-02T06:00
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners, including in-depth coverage of effective hangboard training, the importance of developing a climbing "t...
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Episode #28: Energy System Training (part 5) - The Art of the Science from 2018-08-28T05:00
This is the fifth and final episode in our study of Energy System Training theory and application. In this 90-minute tour de force, Eric presents the art of the science via 8 key ideas and disti...
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Episode #27: Ask Coach Horst - Round 3 from 2018-07-28T16:53:30
Welcome to Round #3 of "Ask Coach Hörst"...where I will answer 6 listener questions that I believe you will find interesting and informative. This episode covers wide-ranging topics from the pro...
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Episode #26: Energy System Training (part 4) - Aerobic Power! from 2018-06-21T06:00
This is the fourth in a series on using bioenergetic energy systems as a guiding model to train more effectively. This epic 90-minute episode breaks down the nuance of properly training both th...
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Episode #25: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 2) from 2018-06-01T18:50:27
Welcome to the second round of "Ask Coach Hörst"...where I answer 10 listener questions. This episode covers vast terrain from fingerboard training to climbing nutrition to youth training to elb...
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Episode #24: Energy System Training (part 3) - Anaerobic Capacity Training from 2018-05-11T18:07:02
This is the third in a four-part series on energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts for improved training results and climbing performance. This episode is the c...
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Episode #23: Energy System Training (part 2) - Anaerobic Lactic System from 2018-05-06T10:00
This is the second in a five-part series on energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts to obtain better results in the long-term. This episode (and the next) focus...
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Episode #22: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 1) from 2018-04-12T10:00
As a change-up to my typical long-format, single-topic drill down podcast, I present to you the first episode of "Ask Coach Hörst"! Listen in as I answer 10 listener questions covering a wide ra...
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Episode #21: Energy System Training (part 1) - Alactic Power Training from 2018-03-26T00:24:32
This is the first of a two-part FIVE-part in-depth look at energy system training as a c...
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Episode #20: Autoregulation, Running&Climbing, and Hörst Family Winter Training from 2018-02-18T20:10:26
This episode covers a lot of territory…beginning with a look at the very unique Hörst family winter training program. Next up, is a deep look into using autoregulation to adjust your daily train...
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Episode #19: Tips to Improve Your Training, Productivitiy,&Performance in the New Year! from 2017-12-31T21:57:43
I hope you’ll find this New Year’s podcast informative, thought-provoking, and mobilizing! After all, uncommon success comes to people who have big dreams, a clear vision and plan, and a bias fo...
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Episode #18: Winter/Off-Season Training Strategy from 2017-11-29T03:24:37
Learn a proven and effective approach to off-season training, broken down for beginner-, intermediate-, and advanced/pro-level climbers. Eric discusses how to handle nagging injuries, refresh mo...
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Episode #17: How to Manage the Fear of Falling from 2017-10-25T00:00
If you occasionally struggle with the fear of falling, then this podcast is for you!
While the fear of falling is most acute among beginner and intermediate climbers, it's a fact that adv...
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Episode #16: The Future of Training for Climbing from 2017-09-16T14:58:46
Eric describes in detail his vision for improving the effectiveness of training programs via advances in training & testing technologies, nuanced program design, and genetic testing and epigenet...
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Episode #15: Reflections on a Roadtrip&5 Training/Performance Myths BUSTED! from 2017-08-10T20:38:07
In this podcast, Eric Hörst presents many practical tips for climbing your best on a roadtrip…and for training in safe and effective ways, by steering clear of popular training myths and dogma.<...
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Episode #14: Performance Climbing Tips for Weekend Warriors from 2017-07-01T05:00
If you’re a passionate climber who works full-time (or in school), then you likely train indoors during the week with the goal of climbing your best outdoors on the weekend. In this podcast we’l...
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Episode #13: Structuring Your Off-Season&In-Season Training for Peak Performance from 2017-06-02T15:20:30
Climbing is one of the most complex sports on this third rock from the sun, and training for climbing is an extraordinarily complex activity in its own right. While beginners should mainly climb...
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Episode #12: The "10-4 Rule" for Effective Projecting&Steady Improvement from 2017-05-01T05:00
A question I'm often asked is how much time—or attempts—should you put into a project route, before taking a break and working on other climbs. My short answer (with a few caveats) is that it’s...
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Episode #11: Training for Climbing: The Past, The Present, The Future. from 2017-04-01T05:00
Podcast #11
Training: The Past, The Present, The Future
This episode is more of a free-form podcast rather than single-topic focused, as in the previous podcasts. I hope you enjoy...
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Episode #10: Fingerboard Training to Increasing Maximum Grip Strength from 2017-03-01T10:00
In terms of physical attributes, increasing relative peak finger force is central to taking your climbing to the next level—think of this as the finger force you can apply to a rock hold in rela...
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Episode #9: 5 Reasons Why Strong Fingers Matter from 2017-02-02T01:57:19
While climbing is, first and foremost, a mental and technical skill sport, long-term improvement—and pursuing your genetic potential—demands getting stronger in a number of climbing specific way...
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Episode #8: Tips for Effective Winter Gym Training from 2017-01-01T05:01
Welcome to the launch of the new Training for Climbing podcast! This is one full hour of rich training-for-climbing content, so you may want to take notes or listen twice...
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Episode #7: Managing the Fears of Falling&Failure from 2016-10-04T11:00
In this episode we’ll examine two of the most common fears among climbers--the fear of falling and the fear of failure--and I’ll arm you with several strategies for managing, and perhaps even el...
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Episode #6: 8 Tips to Improving Your Outdoor Climbing Performance this Season from 2016-06-27T09:00
You've spent the winter and spring training hard in the gym...yet for some reason your new physical prowess isn't translating into better performance outside. If this sounds familiar, then this ...
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Episode #5: Risk Management for Outdoor Rock Climbers from 2016-02-07T20:00:09
In this podcast we’ll take a look at the most fundamental aspect of effective climbing: risk management. After all, if you get hurt—or worst—then all your time spent trainin...
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Episode #4: The Power of Proprioception from 2015-06-01T04:01
In ascending a boulder, cliff, or mountain, you are expressing skilled mo...
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Episode #3: Accelerated Learning of Climbing Skills from 2015-04-16T01:10:54
Despite being as intuitive and natural as walking or running, climbing ca...
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Episode #2: Climbing Performance “X-Factors” from 2015-03-02T01:45:10
Ever wonder what makes great climbers great? Learn the “X-factors” that help make greats like Ondra, Megos, Skinner, Hill, Gill, Caldwell, Jorgeson, and other climbers who break barriers and do ...
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