Episode #10: Fingerboard Training to Increasing Maximum Grip Strength - a podcast by Eric J. Hörst

In terms of physical attributes, increasing relative peak finger force is central to taking your climbing to the next level—think of this as the finger force you can apply to a rock hold in relation to the body mass the fingers must support.  Improving this finger strength-to-weight ratio is possible by increasing the numerator (greater finger strength) and decreasing the denominator (lowering body mass).

While there are many different fingerboard training methods/protocols/programs (some good, some bad) in the public domain, this podcasts will present four evidence-based protocols that work. Experienced climbers, with no recent history of injury to the fingers/elbows/shoulders, can employ one of these maximum-grip-strength protocols on a twice-a-week basis as supplement to time spent climbing. Aggregate number of climbing and finger training days per week must not exceed four—resting the fingers a minimum of three days per week is essential for neuromuscular recovery and finger tendon remodeling. Break this rule and you’ll likely end up “broken”….in one way or another.

Podcast Rundown:

1:14 - Review of 5 reasons why stronger fingers are central to taking your climbing to the next level

4:24 - Intro to maximum finger strength training on a hangboard

4:50 - Importance of "Relative Peak Finger Force"

10:10 - 3 Hangboard training modalities

13:33 - Training protocol 1: "Minimum Edge"

19:14 - Training protocol 2: "Maximum Weight 10-second Hangs"

25:20 - Training protocol 3: "7-53 Weight Hangs"

32:00 - Training protocol 4: "7/3 Repeaters"

41:00 - How to fingerboard with good technique...to protect & strengthen your shoulders.

45:05 - Hangboard training program design - How to integrate your with your other workouts and performance climbing.

53:00 - Closing comments

Music: Misty Murphy

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