Episode #18: Winter/Off-Season Training Strategy - a podcast by Eric J. Hörst

from 2017-11-29T03:24:37

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Learn a proven and effective approach to off-season training, broken down for beginner-, intermediate-, and advanced/pro-level climbers. Eric discusses how to handle nagging injuries, refresh motivation, and develop an winter-season training strategy to climbing your hardest next year!

Podcast Rundown

1:00 - Podcast introduction including a discussion of new projects and my T4C YouTube channel.

2:00 - Brief intro to Jerry Moffatt's MasterMind...the best-selling Gimme Kraft, and Claudia Ziegler's "The Young Savages" book (featuring Adam Ondra, Shauna Coxsey, and more!)

5:50 - T4C Raffle! Eric explains how you can win a free copy of The Young Savages or a signed copy of Training For Climbing (3rd edition)

7:43 - Introduction to...End-of-season & off-season training strategy.

11:40 - Step #1: Take 2 weeks off from training and climbing, then evaluate your physical health. If still experiencing any joint or muscles pain, then get it resolved--see a doctor or physio. Do NOT try to "climb through" your injury! Learn how to "train around" it.

19:40 - Step #2: Begin an intelligent, well-designed and executed off-season training program that addresses technical & mental weaknesses and physical constraints. Program recommendations will be served up for beginner, intermediate and advanced-level climbers.

22:08 - The best off-season training approach for beginner climbers is....

27:52 - Eric explains his "training target" analogy.

28:15 - Intermediate program recommendations

37:00 - The importance of training the rotator cuff and scapular stabilizer muscles--not just for injured climbers!

38:06 - Learn how the brain acts as a governor limiting your grip strength in body positions that severely stress the shoulder joint. Yes, a stronger rotator cuff = stronger fingers! Specific exercise guidelines are found in chapter 6 of Training for Climbing.

41:32 - Advanced/Pro-level off-season training tips. Physical testing and expert coaching is essential to hit the bull's eye of your training target--vital for opening up the next grade.

48:00 - Importance of seeing the big picture (and mission), while nailing the critical training details (the bull's eye!).

49:10 - Warning about training too much, thus exceeding your recovery ability...and getting lackluster results...and risking injury.