Episode #58 - The Secrets to Finger Strength...When It Counts! - a podcast by Eric J. Hörst
from 2021-02-03T05:30
Chances are...your fingers are already strong enough to climb the next grade. In this podcast, Eric details five ways to increase your apparent finger strength on the rock...and climb one grade harder!
Whether you're an intermediate, advanced, or pro-level climber, you'll surely find a few of Eric's concepts and tips to be empowering...and just maybe provide you with the "secret" to breaking a plateau or sending your project.
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Podcast Rundown
6:09 - Gaining more finger strength without training your fingers! Huh? Listen and learn some secrets to becoming a more efficient and effective climber.
11:00 - Eric's comments about finger force testing.
15:30 - Five secrets to stronger fingers on the rock. Non-finger training that will make your fingers stronger for climbing!
16:12 - #1: Learn the importance of climbing economy...and why a weaker climber can sometimes outperform a stronger climber.
21:33 - #2: Training hip flexibility increases finger strength-endurance, especially on near-vertical boulders and routes.
31:30 - #3: Stronger shoulders make fingers stronger. Learn why.
38:08 - #4: Stronger wrist flexors and wrist extensors will improve your sloper and crimp grips, respectively.
45:40 - #5: Increasing core strength and core strength-endurance make small hand and foot holds "bigger" and more solid...and increase apparent finger strength and endurance. But to obtain this effect, you must train comprehensive core strength with a wide range of exercises.
58:12 - Summary and final tips to improve your climbing.
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Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.
Music by Misty Murphy
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Further episodes of Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Further podcasts by Eric J. Hörst
Website of Eric J. Hörst